.......or is it just fluff and visually pleasing????
This is definitely not a rant of a ‘never to be Michelin chef', just my observations which I think I am
now qualified for, after cooking for happy customers (in the main) for the last
five years.
After a crazy few months (years??) and very emotionally charged, on top of being very busy (happy to say) at the café, I decided to take
myself for a bit of ‘me’ time,
I found a deal at an up market spa along the cote de
vermeillle, I won’t mention the name as
this is not a review, just general observations. The restaurant is Michelin starred
so I was very excited to see how ‘the other half’ cook and eat.
After one of the best massages I've ever had, and a jacuzzi with ‘un
coupe de champagne’ while overlooking the Med, I was all ready for my ‘degustation
menu’.
The patio of the restaurant also overlooked the med and I
made sure I had a spot where I could see the reflection of the sunset over the
sea. I am not used to dining alone so I
was all prepared with my book (btw Anthony Bourdin - Medium Raw).
I was greeted by a very sweet young serveur, who asked me what
wine and water I would like; (definitely not happy to give me the tap variety of water). I asked if
there was not a wine per tasting course, which there was a definite NON, which
was a surprise and a disappointment. I ordered
a glass of local rose (5€ for 12cl), which I thought would go well the first
course.

The meal began with an ‘amuse bouche’ of melon gazpacho and seared parma ham (with savoury cream which I didn’t think really worked) with the ham and the melon, this was an interesting start.
My lovely waiter then came back to tell me they would provide a wine with each course for a 'small' extra cost. The menu began with a gazpacho of lobster garnished with a tomato and basil sorbet which was delicious and looked very pretty. The wine they presented with it was a lovely fruity sweet white banyuls which did not work with the dish at all, so I was very pleased to have my rose which worked really well especially with the fresh diced peppers at the bottom of the dish.
Next up was the fish course sea bass, which was my favourite dish of this menu, delicate, incredible combinations of flavours and textures (sweet seared shallots, confit lemon, grilled baby asparagus all brought together with a citrus foam) and once again beautifully presented. I didn't get a wine with this course and I was grateful for my ever faithful rose but this would have been so delicious with the grenache gris that I would have the following evening.


Then onto the meat course, of beef tenderloin which was really disappointing, once again beautifully presented and cooked perfectly for me but not for most I think, even in France! It wasn't exciting and definitely under-seasoned (rare for me to say). No salt and pepper provided on the table. The anchovy beignet was obviously supposed to provide some seasoning which just didn't work for me. The wine they served with it was once again delicious (hard to find a truly bad wine here) but the blend was too overwhelming for the dish, as the jus was delicately balsamic and the beef very rare!

Next came the cheese course, well, I just burst our laughing, firstly all white cheeses with an aged chevre for difference. When compared to our 6€ cheeseboard, I know our customers are getting value for money. The first wine, the sweet banyuls was a perfect match and not the red they offered, especially with sweet and sour apricots and walnuts.
I'm afraid I was then done, too much of a good thing and was not tempted by any of the desserts (but I normally wouldn't have a dessert) so no real reflection on the choices. This also meant they didn't charge me for my wine which was a bonus for me.
I was obviously disappointed to the lacklustre effort of wine pairing but my biggest disappointment was of the par-baked rolls, which were acceptable but just.... this is France people, bread matters!! Even in Le Petit Chou we offer three types of bread with every meal, baked that day at the local
boulangerie, no heating up rolls here! I thought maybe its Sunday night but no, at breakfast the next morning the bread was just as unappealing.
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The array of glasses at the end of my meal... |
definitely order again.
My main course was also fish, fried mullet fillets, (not normally my first choice) but it was also delicious, loved the subtle flavours, with an exceptional shellfish stock and the fried capers were simply delightful.
So my conclusion, yes the food in the main was amazing and the presentation exceptional, but when it comes to substance over glamour I am not convinced. It was a lovely treat and I was happy to have been able to do it. I also realized dining alone two nights in a row, is not much fun even with the company of the tragic late Anthony. Plus I also learnt that my customers definitely get good plain honest cooking, (hopefully prettily presented), but without doubt value for money!! Plus our wine per glass is only 2.50€ (25cl) for organic local delights.
However, I will probably return for that delicious massage, the peace and quiet and those prawns...one day!!